1). If the "notched button" will not move when you try to turn it in a clockwise direction, then the counter wheel has seized on its support shaft; you should not try to force it as you might cause serious damage to the frame counting mechanism. The reason is most probably that the lubricating grease used by Hasselblad has become "glue like" through drying out over the years; the magazine will need taking apart, cleaning, lubricating and reassembling. I use watchmaker's oil rather than grease when I service my magazines. 2). Cassettes can be bought on ebay for example. 3) Out of date film may be purchased also on ebay. 4). Fresh film is available from Maco direct and via the Ilford ULF 2017 run. Film Ferrania have said they will make it available at some time in the (far?) future. Where are you located? Hope this helps you a little. Cofion, Richard Hughes.
I would not cut 70mm film from both sides since it will leave uneven perforation marks which could damage the machines. instead, get from xkaes at aol dot com(fred) a one-blade version which will cut 8.5mm from one side. I have both versions. this procedure is wise to use when one cannot develop oneself. 70mm developping three-reel-part-technique using 120/220-reels the wide way(see above) working with: a) Jobo 2500 I am using Testtank 2820 with 500ml used in CPA2-rotating machine. I used also 2517-70mm-reel for 220 lenght-172cm approx. in this tank successfully also E-6, C-41 and b+w. b) Paterson 4-system Hasselblad 70mm back and 61.5mm film-longroll or stitched We are working on shims for kodak 70mm cartridges(it has a filmclamp-linhof has a slit for 70mm film and reel is thicker) to use 61.5mm film in this back. Since Linhof reels are thicker we will offer two versions. Only must be tested of the slit to hold film will also work for 61.5mm. or if it must be taped. The mentioned system is already working with Graflex RH-50 6x7/70mm-4x5-counter can be zeroed and for Hasselbald one must alter the cogwheel and o-ring added. i will let someone in europe make this. someone already did this successfully.
Handling 4.7m or 6.5m(depending film-thickness) is a mess. Jobo has a 5m-developping tank. i have it, not yet used. handling this lenght is a special task. instead i exposed for 220-lenght and cut it then to mount in 2517_70mm jobo-reel. 172cm film can be loaded. Cutting at the right position needs planning. I know how much to cut at the end and in the darkroom is a ruler with 172cm lenght then. Was using 70mm in Roundshot 65/70/220. 120 can also be used but a bad idea only slow rotation thanks to disturbing paper. the very same cam-one year older is on ebay now. if you are willing to carry around 6.5kg plus tripod and invest time and nerves get the cam it has 26mm shift up. 1/250- 4sec (0.9sec/16 min rotating time 1/8 is lacking) to shift down special u-shape must be contructed.
i'm on a similar quest - aim is to use motion picture 65mm film. I have a couple of questions and i'm hoping that you won't mind answering. 1. Am considering making a jig similar to the one you describe for slitting the film but rather than pulling the film through, having the razors glide (hopefully) through the film. As I am likely to be cutting through perforations on both sides i wondered which method would work better. I realise that a moving slitter is a more complicated assembly but as i will be short on space and not always certain of having a clean environment, having the film stationary in its 'sterile' corridor seems to be a necessity. That way i can use the whole assembly in any relatively clean space. 2. You mention the possibility of dispensing with the backing paper completely and (un)loding film in total darkness. Presumably the film would still need to be anchored to the spools and wound on. This would entail wasting a certain amount of film, would it not? Then there's the additional problem of knowing where to wind to before closing the back and starting the camera's counter. Are my assumptions correct? 3. i am also considering cutting out the sprocket holes completely (if i can do so without impinging on the image area). I note the 2 problems you anticipate with this approach - centering the film strip (which i believe i can overcome) and ensuring that the film will still sit comfortably in a developing reel (something i'll have to check with my reels once i know the actual dimensions) - are you aware of any others? Thanks very much in advance.
Thank you for your questions: 1. Using your proposed method would require a 'sterile corridor' of some length (around 1.6 metres) and if you cannot guarantee a clean environment then I would be reluctant to start; clearly the method can work although I would prefer a shorter film 'guide' and to wind the cut film onto a spool that has already been been prepared with the trailer paper. You need to minimize film handling as film is quite fragile and to degrade the film in any way defeats the purpose of the whole exercise. Use surgical gloves so no fat is transferred from hand to emulsion. 2. True but the wastage can be minimized in that when you have taped the film end to the take up spool you can close the magazine immediately and start shooting - the film counter will synchronize eventually giving you 28 or 29 frames on your '220' strip. (I am describing only Hasselblad). 3. Yes you could but as a general principle the less the film is handled the better so the removal of one side of perforations is a 'gentler' approach. You need to remove a strip of width 4.5mm along the entire length but not more if you want to avoid problems with your developing tank spools. you should perhaps measure all the critical widths on both magazine and tank spools using accurate calipers and you may find that you can get away with removing 3.5mm. Please let me know how you get on. Cofion, Richard Hughes.
I told nokton24(hope its right now) to send holgamods the drawing for his joba-adapter in order to be able developping 70mm films. he has now found a simpler method by using a 35mm cartridge, bent the right way to stop one spiral from moving. havent tried myself. I could imagine in 2018 when Washi-film will bring its correx-system for Jobo and Paterson one could possibly develop also 70mm films but i wouldnt trust in this since its for 35 and 120 films only. it will definitively not work in old correx tanks since they are too small then. already with 120 one must be very cautious. i have saved the exact informations. I could test loading 70mm film(120 lenght only). Jobo-70mm-method using additional pressing spriral is simplest method. here it is: Left: 3-Reel- Jobo 2500 method. working also for Paterson. Rigth: Jobo 2517 70mm(172cm/220 lenght)-reel. I used Jobo 2820 testdrum with 2517 but 3-reel-combo can also be mounted. 500mml C-41 chemicals used in CPA2.
Hi Richard Thank you very much for your considered response. My apologies for the delay in replying - I was caught up in the throes of designing a solution. To clarify, when i say I cannot guarantee a clean environment, i was referring to the area outside my sterile corridor into which I would have been pulling film from the slitter. My preference is for a limited area which i can try to guarantee is dust free. I am considering blowing filtered air through it to create a positive pressure chamber. Ideally, I would like to be able to transport the rig to any darkroom and get to work with relative ease. I didn't really understand your reference to a shorter film guide - would you mind explaining? My proposed system minimises film handling. I plan to have the original film reel on a system that can travel the length of the corridor. I will move the reel to one end then clamp the film at the start position and then spool film off the reel as I move the reel back. Once I am sure I have arrived at the other end a 'safe' guillotine will be used to slice the film after it has been clamped. Once the film has been laid down, the reel is moved further down the track and out of the way. The slitter is then run along the corridor. I am, at the moment, planning to slit from both sides, which will result in a partially perforated border and i do worry about the possibility of the film snarling up when i try to insert it on to development reels. At each end a prepared piece of backing paper is slid under the film and taped to the film (the necessary precautions will be taken to ensure that the film is centred on the backing paper and that the area of backing paper under the film is correct and consistently the same. The film is then wound onto a spool using a manual crank. Ideally I would do this just once getting the tensioning right by weighting the whole spool at one end but if i need to i might have to spool it the wrong way round and then put it in a camera or a back that allows winding of the film (I'm assuming mamiya 220 backs allow this without being attached to the camera). Issues: 1. Cost - i'm not a diy person so this will have to be made for me. If it is too expensive, the project will die. 2. Dust - As I say above, if i need to i will make a tent over the sterile corridor. 3. Film curl when laying down the film from the reel. The plan is to do the whole thing without touching the film except possibly for a very small area at either end - if the film is threatening to curl away, this might make it difficult. 4. Ensuring that the corridor is smooth and does not damage or cause the spool to catch. I'm considering lining the corridor in a soft fleece like material but I must also avoid the risk of generating static electricity which would attract dust particles - (of which there should be none, hmmm) 5. Backing paper - I understand that commercial grade backing paper can be purchased from Ilford via their annual ULF program but I also hear that it is quite costly so I am interested in possible alternatives. I was given to believe that there really weren't any that meet the stringent requirements of effectively shutting out light and not reacting to the film. But you mention that you have used an alternative in the past. What was your experience with it and would you mind sharing its source? I am thinking that since the emulsion is only briefly in contact with the backing paper (including when wound on the spool), the stringent requirements might be more easily met with 220 film. Thank you for the clarity of what you have written on this thread - it played a big part in convincing me that this is doable. mainoo
on the net there are instructions how to produce 220. why not get a slitter or two(one blade to cut only one side of perforations) or two blades to cut inbetween 70mm-perforations. then mounting to 220-paper- there is a solution how to use 120-paper. get the slitter from Joe of xkaes at aol dot com made in china exclusively for Joe. any slitter can be made.
Want to warn you cutting perforations on both sides of 70mm film- only cut them on ONE SIDE. get Xkaes-slitter. perforations are needed for the cogwheeel which is calculating spacing,avoiding overlapping. true for all magazines. on photrio i have seen insights of my findings since i have two Mamya RB67/70 backs one integrated partly in a 40mm pinhole-cam. Pls read what i have found out. using 120/220 longroll(cut 70mm aka 61.5mm film). when 70mm film is used counterproblem is gone. i will verify again since the new back(70/120/220 longroll 61.5mm-conversion) seems to need overhaul. counter not working. need to check of true also for 70mm film. using unperforated 61.5mm film inside Mamya RB67/70 seems to work incl. working counter. only have to doublecheck since it need special procedure of no perforations is there. pls read in phototrio my newest findings. also 3dreal there.
